About Simone Moro
Simone Moro is a globally renowned alpinist and helicopter pilot, whose achievements in high-altitude mountaineering inspire adventurers worldwide.
Simone Moro, born on October 27, 1967, in Bergamo, Italy, has ascended to the pinnacle of high-altitude mountaineering, setting himself apart as a pioneering alpinist and a skilled helicopter pilot.
With a career that reads like a litany of mountaineering milestones, Moro has redefined the possibilities of winter climbing on the world’s highest peaks, becoming the first to achieve winter ascents on four of the Earth’s 8,000-meter giants.
These achievements showcase his exceptional technical skills and physical endurance.
They also reflect his unwavering commitment to pushing the limits of human potential. Moro’s career spans roles as an alpinist, helicopter pilot in high-altitude rescue and Altitude Helicopters, author detailing his expeditions, and a Motivational speaker sharing insights on overcoming challenges.
Milestones
70
Completed 70 expeditions on the world’s highest peaks.
38
Climbed 4 peaks over 7,000 meters in 38 days.
14
Reached the summit of an 8,000-meter peak fourteen times.
8
Summited eight of the fourteen 8,000-meter peaks.
69
He obtained his helicopter license, including PPL and CPL, in 69 days.
4
Reached the summit of Everest four times.
4
He is the only person in history with 4 absolute winter first ascents on an 8,000-meter peak.
Simone's Alpinist Journey
Beginning his climbing journey at 13 and later transitioning to the Himalayas, Simone Moro’s illustrious career includes pioneering first winter ascents of four 8,000-meter peaks. Among over 55 expeditions by 2020, showcasing a remarkable blend of passion, skill, and determination.
Simone's Helicopter Mission
As a helicopter pilot specialized in rescues in the Himalayas, and operating his own Helicopter Company for Charter, Exkursions and Tours in Italy.
In addition to his helicopter rescue projects, Simone Moro has profoundly impacted the lives of local communities in Nepal and Pakistan, addressing their fundamental needs through several special projects.
He founded a school in Syadul, Nepal, providing education for 396 children, ensuring that both boys and girls in the region have access to learning opportunities, thereby fostering a culture of inclusivity and equal opportunity.
Further north, in the Islamic region of Pakistan, he established the Shimshal climbing school, promoting not only physical education but also gender equality in sports, encouraging students to transcend traditional barriers and pursue excellence in mountaineering.
In the Nanga Parbat region of Pakistan, Moro contributed to healthcare by setting up a medical dispensary, offering essential medical services to the remote communities.
Moreover, in the high Diamir Valley of Pakistan, he created a bivouac for shepherds, enhancing their safety and living conditions in this rugged terrain.
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Simone Moro – 2023
My life in short
27. October 1967
Simone Moro was born in Bergamo, Italy. From a young age, he was drawn to the mountains, a passion that would define his life and career.
Early 1980s
At 13, Moro embarked on his climbing journey in the Bergamasque Alps, nurtured by his father’s enthusiasm for climbing and mountain biking, laying the foundation for a legendary mountaineering career.
1985-1992 – Sport Climbing
Moro honed his climbing skills on sport routes, achieving significant milestones by reaching climbing grades of IX+ and X+, showcasing early signs of his exceptional talent and dedication to climbing.
1992 – First Himalayan Expedition
This marked the beginning of Moro’s illustrious career in high-altitude mountaineering, transitioning from sport climbing to tackling some of the highest and most challenging peaks in the Himalayas.
2001 – Everest-Lhotse Rescue
Demonstrating remarkable bravery and selflessness, Moro aided fellow climber Tom Moore during an Everest-Lhotse traverse, prioritizing the safety of others over his climbing ambitions, which earned him international acclaim.
2003 – Academic Achievement
Moro successfully merged his climbing expertise with academic pursuits, graduating from the University of Bergamo with a thesis on high-altitude alpinism, reflecting his deep intellectual engagement with the sport.
2005 – Shisha Pangma Winter Ascent
Simone achieved a groundbreaking first winter ascent of Shisha Pangma, showcasing his pioneering spirit and resilience, setting a new benchmark for winter climbing in the Himalayas.
2009 – Makalu Winter Ascent
This expedition added to Moro’s legacy as a winter climbing specialist, successfully summiting Makalu and further establishing his reputation for accomplishing what many deemed impossible in the harshest conditions.
2012 – Helicopter Pilot Certification
In just 69 days, Moro became a commercial helicopter pilot, showcasing his adaptability and commitment to mastering new skills that would enhance his capabilities in mountain rescue operations.
2011 – Gasherbrum II Winter Ascent
Alongside Denis Urubko and Cory Richards, Moro achieved the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II. This feat underscored the power of teamwork and human spirit in overcoming extreme adversity.
May 18, 2012 – Teng Kang Poche Rescue
Moro participated in a high-altitude rescue on Teng Kang Poche, likely the highest wall rescue ever performed by helicopter, highlighting his skill and bravery in life-saving operations.
May 19, 2013 – Record-Breaking Rescue
Moro broke his own record by performing a long line rescue at 7,800 meters, once again demonstrating his exceptional abilities in high-altitude helicopter rescues and setting a new standard in the field.
2014 – Altitude Helicopters Foundation
By founding “Altitude Helicopters” in San Diego, Moro leveraged his experience and passion for flying to educate and inspire future pilots, contributing to the field of aerial rescue and helicopter piloting.
October 25, 2015 – Helicopter World Record
Moro set a world record by flying a helicopter over the Dolomites to 6,705 meters, demonstrating his skill as a pilot and his continuous pursuit of challenging the limits of aviation and exploration.
2016 – Nanga Parbat Winter Ascent
Achieving the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat was a monumental milestone in Moro’s career, proving his unmatched skill in navigating the complexities and dangers of winter Himalayan climbing.
2016 – Humanitarian Projects
Recognizing his broader impact, Moro initiated several humanitarian projects, including educational and medical facilities in Nepal and Pakistan, reflecting his deep commitment to supporting the communities he encountered through climbing.
2016 – Honors and Recognitions
The city of Bergamo awarded Moro honorary citizenship, acknowledging his extraordinary achievements in mountaineering and his significant humanitarian contributions, celebrating his status as a local and global hero.
Today
Moro continues to inspire through his climbing achievements, humanitarian efforts, and speaking engagements, sharing his experiences and insights, and remaining a pivotal figure in the mountaineering and outdoor adventure communities.
My Awards
2016
Gold Medal of the Italian Alpine Club, Bergamo section
2016
Honorary Citizenship of the city of Bergamo, Italy
2016
Excellence Guirlande d’Honneur by Sport Movies & TV 2016
2016
Athlete of the Year within the International Award for Civil Sport by the Veteran in Sports Association
2011
Best of The ExplorersWeb and Golden Piton USA
2010
Adventurer of the Year in Stockholm
2009 and 2010
Dalla Longa Award
2009
Eiger Award
2008 and 2009
Paolo Consiglio Award from the Italian Alpine Club (CAI)
2003
Pierre De Coubertin Fair Play by UNESCO
2003
Gold Medal for Civil Valor from the President of the Republic Carlo Azeglio Ciampi
2002
David A. Sowles Memorial Award from the American Alpine Club
My latest Expeditions
2020
Gasherbrum I and II Winter Traverse Attempt with Tamara Lunger
2016
First complete winter ascent of Nanga Parbat with Alex Txikon and Ali Sadpara.
Nanga Parbat – 8,126 m
2015
Attempted first complete winter ascent of Manaslu with Tamara Lunger.
Manaslu – 8,163 m
2014
Winter attempt on Nanga Parbat with David Göttler; aborted due to illness.
Nanga Parbat – 8,126 m
2013
Everest NO2 Expedition with Ueli Steck and Jonathan Griffit conflict with Sherpas.
Mount Everest – 8,848 m
2012
Nanga Parbat Winter Attempt (aborted due to unfavorable weather)
Nanga Parbat – 8,126 m
Sponsors
Behind every adventure is a strong partner making it all happen. My sponsors are essential, offering support and resources to turn dreams into reality.
