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My Expeditions

A chronological list of all my expeditions around the world.

1992
First Himalayan expedition on Mount Everest, reached 7400 m.

Mount Everst – 8,848 m

1993
Summited Cerro Mirador in Bolivia via a new route in winter.

Cerro Mirador – 5,245 m

1993
First winter ascent of Aconcagua in 13 hours, attempted South Face.

Aconcagua – 6,961 m

1993
Solo climb to 8300 m on Makalu via the Kukuczka Route.

Makalu – 8,463 m

1994
Reached 7400 m on Shishapangma.

Shishapangma – 8,027 m

1995
Advanced to 7600 m on Kangchenjunga despite bad weather.

Kangchenjunga – 8,586 m

1996
Climbed Fitz Roy via West Face in 25 hours, round trip.

Fitz Roy – 3,341 m

1996
Reached Dhaulagiri up to 7200 m.

Dhaulagiri – 8,167 m

1996
Summited Shishapangma Middle Peak, skied down from 7100 m.

Shishapangma Middle Peak – 8,008 m

1997
Summited Lhotse with Anatoli Boukreev.

Lhotse – 8,516 m

1997
Winter attempt on Annapurna South Face; faced avalanche.

Annapurna – 8,091 m

1998
Ascended Everest via the North Ridge to 8200 m.

Mount Everest – 8,848 m

1999
Attempted all five Snow Leopard peaks in one season.

Snow Leopard peaks – 7,010 m – 7,495 m

2000
Summited Everest with Denis Urubko via South Route.

Mount Everest – 8,848 m

2001
First winter climb of Marble Wall in Tien Shan by a Western alpinist.

Marble Wall (6,400 m)

2002
Summited Cho Oyu in 10 hours and 30 minutes.

Cho Oyu – 8,188 m

2002
Second summit of Everest with additional oxygen.

Mount Everest – 8,848 m

2002
Attempted Broad Peak and K2.

Broad Peak – 8,047 m

2002
Summited Mount Vinson in Antarctica.

Mount Vinson – 4,892 m

2003
Climbed Kilimanjaro.

Kilimanjaro – 5,895 m

2003
Broad Peak summit achieved in 24 hours.

Broad Peak – 8,051 m

2003
Attempted new route on Nanga Parbat; stopped at 7400 m.

Nanga Parbat – 8,125 m

2003
Summited Elbrus in 3 hours and 40 minutes.

Elbrus – 5,642 m

2003/04
Winter attempt on Shishapangma; stopped 300 m short of the summit.

Shishapangma – 8,027 m

2004
First ascent on Baruntse’s North Peak (7220 m) with Denise Urubko.

Baruntse North Peak – 7,220 m

2004
Attempted Annapurna with Denis Urubko; Urubko reached the summit.

Annapurna – 8,091 m

2004/05
First winter ascent of Shishapangma.

Shishapangma – 8,027 m

2005
Climbed Batokshi peak on Batura Sar.

Batokshi Peak on Batura Sar – 7,795 m

2006
Solo south-north traverse of Everest.

Mount Everest – 8,848 m

2006/07
Winter attempt on Broad Peak; aborted 700 m below the summit.

Broad Peak – 8,051 m

2007/08
Second winter attempt on Broad Peak; reached 7800 m.

Broad Peak – 8,051 m

2008
First ascent of Beka Brakai Chhok’s South Peak

Beka Brakai Chhok South Peak – Approx. 6,850 m

2008/09
First winter ascent of Makalu with Denis Urubko.

Makalu – 8,485 m

2009
Cho Oyu Trilogy Expedition aborted due to early border closure.

Cho Oyu – 8,188 m

2010
Everest-Lhotse expedition with Denis Urubko and Italian clients.

Mount Everest – 8,848 m / Lhotse – 8,516 m

2011
First winter ascent of Gasherbrum II with Urubko and Cory Richards.

Gasherbrum II – 8,034 m

2012
Winter attempt on Nanga Parbat with Denis Urubko; abandoned due to weather.

Nanga Parbat – 8,126 m

2013
Everest NO2 Expedition with Ueli Steck and Jonathan Griffit conflict with Sherpas.

Mount Everest – 8,848 m

2014
Winter attempt on Nanga Parbat with David Göttler; aborted due to illness.

Nanga Parbat – 8,126 m

2015
Attempted first complete winter ascent of Manaslu with Tamara Lunger.

Manaslu – 8,163 m

2016
First complete winter ascent of Nanga Parbat with Alex Txikon and Ali Sadpara.

Nanga Parbat – 8,126 m

2019
Manaslu winter attempt aborted due to avalanche risk.

Manaslu – 8,163 m

2020
Winter Gasherbrum I and II traverse attempt with Tamara Lunger;
aborted after crevasse fall.

Gasherbrum I – 8,080 m; Gasherbrum II – 8,035 m