A chronological list of all my expeditions around the world.
1992First Himalayan expedition on Mount Everest, reached 7400 m.
Mount Everst – 8,848 m
1993Summited Cerro Mirador in Bolivia via a new route in winter.
Cerro Mirador – 5,245 m
1993First winter ascent of Aconcagua in 13 hours, attempted South Face.
Aconcagua – 6,961 m
1993Solo climb to 8300 m on Makalu via the Kukuczka Route.
Makalu – 8,463 m
1994Reached 7400 m on Shishapangma.
Shishapangma – 8,027 m
1995Advanced to 7600 m on Kangchenjunga despite bad weather.
Kangchenjunga – 8,586 m
1996Climbed Fitz Roy via West Face in 25 hours, round trip.
Fitz Roy – 3,341 m
1996Reached Dhaulagiri up to 7200 m.
Dhaulagiri – 8,167 m
1996Summited Shishapangma Middle Peak, skied down from 7100 m.
Shishapangma Middle Peak – 8,008 m
1997Summited Lhotse with Anatoli Boukreev.
Lhotse – 8,516 m
1997Winter attempt on Annapurna South Face; faced avalanche.
Annapurna – 8,091 m
1998Ascended Everest via the North Ridge to 8200 m.
Mount Everest – 8,848 m
1999Attempted all five Snow Leopard peaks in one season.
Snow Leopard peaks – 7,010 m – 7,495 m
2000Summited Everest with Denis Urubko via South Route.
2001First winter climb of Marble Wall in Tien Shan by a Western alpinist.
Marble Wall (6,400 m)
2002Summited Cho Oyu in 10 hours and 30 minutes.
Cho Oyu – 8,188 m
2002Second summit of Everest with additional oxygen.
2002Attempted Broad Peak and K2.
Broad Peak – 8,047 m
2002Summited Mount Vinson in Antarctica.
Mount Vinson – 4,892 m
2003Climbed Kilimanjaro.
Kilimanjaro – 5,895 m
2003Broad Peak summit achieved in 24 hours.
Broad Peak – 8,051 m
2003Attempted new route on Nanga Parbat; stopped at 7400 m.
Nanga Parbat – 8,125 m
2003Summited Elbrus in 3 hours and 40 minutes.
Elbrus – 5,642 m
2003/04Winter attempt on Shishapangma; stopped 300 m short of the summit.
2004First ascent on Baruntse’s North Peak (7220 m) with Denise Urubko.
Baruntse North Peak – 7,220 m
2004Attempted Annapurna with Denis Urubko; Urubko reached the summit.
2004/05First winter ascent of Shishapangma.
2005Climbed Batokshi peak on Batura Sar.
Batokshi Peak on Batura Sar – 7,795 m
2006Solo south-north traverse of Everest.
2006/07Winter attempt on Broad Peak; aborted 700 m below the summit.
2007/08Second winter attempt on Broad Peak; reached 7800 m.
2008First ascent of Beka Brakai Chhok’s South Peak
Beka Brakai Chhok South Peak – Approx. 6,850 m
2008/09First winter ascent of Makalu with Denis Urubko.
Makalu – 8,485 m
2009Cho Oyu Trilogy Expedition aborted due to early border closure.
2010Everest-Lhotse expedition with Denis Urubko and Italian clients.
Mount Everest – 8,848 m / Lhotse – 8,516 m
2011First winter ascent of Gasherbrum II with Urubko and Cory Richards.
Gasherbrum II – 8,034 m
2012Winter attempt on Nanga Parbat with Denis Urubko; abandoned due to weather.
Nanga Parbat – 8,126 m
2013Everest NO2 Expedition with Ueli Steck and Jonathan Griffit conflict with Sherpas.
2014Winter attempt on Nanga Parbat with David Göttler; aborted due to illness.
2015Attempted first complete winter ascent of Manaslu with Tamara Lunger.
Manaslu – 8,163 m
2016First complete winter ascent of Nanga Parbat with Alex Txikon and Ali Sadpara.
2019Manaslu winter attempt aborted due to avalanche risk.
2020Winter Gasherbrum I and II traverse attempt with Tamara Lunger; aborted after crevasse fall.
Gasherbrum I – 8,080 m; Gasherbrum II – 8,035 m