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THE NORTH FACE
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The beginning
Simone Moro’s ascent into the ranks of alpinists began in the rugged terrains of the Italian Alps, not far from his hometown of Bergamo.
At the tender age of 13, under the watchful eye of his father—a passionate climber and mountain biker—Moro made his initial forays into the world of climbing. This early exposure laid the groundwork for what would become a lifelong pursuit, with the Grigne and the Dolomites serving as his first formidable teachers.
The Ascent from Alpine Challenges to Himalayan Conquests
Moro’s passion for climbing quickly transcended the recreational, evolving into a disciplined practice of sport climbing. He honed his skills on the challenging rock faces of his local mountains.
Under the guidance of Alberto Cosonni and Bruno Tassi, Moro refined his technique, developing a strong foundation in the basics of climbing that would underpin his later achievements.
By the late 1980s, Moro had established himself within the Italian climbing community, successfully tackling routes graded 8a and 8b+. His accomplishments in sport climbing, however, were just a prelude to his true calling. The towering peaks of the Himalayas beckoned, promising a challenge far greater than any he had faced before.
His achievements in alpinism include first winter ascents of four 8,000-meter peaks:
Shishapangma (2005) during the harsh winter months was a groundbreaking achievement that introduced him to the elite ranks of winter alpinists.
Makalu in 2009: this climb was particularly challenging due to Makalu’s notorious weather conditions and technical difficulties.
Gasherbrum II in 2011 with Denis Urubko and Cory Richards, and Nanga Parbat what is often referred to as the “Killer Mountain” for its deadly reputation in 2016 with Alex Txikon and Ali Sadpara.
The Expedition That
Forged an Alpinist
In 1992, Simone embarked on his inaugural Himalayan expedition, targeting the pinnacle of mountaineering achievements: Mount Everest.
This venture signified a pivotal shift for Moro, transforming him from a proficient sport climber into a determined alpinist ready to confront the world’s most formidable peaks. This daring leap into the unknown promised not only to sculpt his career but also to position him as a leading figure in the realm of alpinism.
Moro’s journey to Everest transcended the mere act of climbing; it became a significant educational odyssey. He was thrust into the intricacies of high-altitude mountaineering, tackling perilous icefalls and braving the extreme conditions of the “death zone” above 8,000 meters.
These challenges did nothing but fortify Moro’s determination, driven by the awe-inspiring beauty and the immense scale of his endeavor.
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